Postings on the environment, outdoor adventure, issues relating to Appalachia and the South. Topics will range from trout fishing to archaeology and water quality, based on my work as a journalist.

Showing posts with label South Carolina. Show all posts
Showing posts with label South Carolina. Show all posts

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Forgotten lessons





Flame azalea shows off in the recently purchased Nature Conservancy Nine Times Preserve. A Jack-in-the-Pulpit flourishes in the Side of the Mountain Creek drainage at Jocassee Gorges. Healthy populations of rare Trilliums result from good management practices in the Jocassee Gorges, which have been heavily logged for generations. Fire is still used as a tool in South Carolina’s Jocassee Gorges Wilderness.

A land ethic changes the role of Homo sapiens from conqueror of the land-community to plain member and citizen of it. It implies respect for his fellow-members and also respect for the community as such.

-- Aldo Leopold




Somewhere along the line we’ve forgotten the lessons of the great naturalist and ethicist Aldo Leopold and have begun to kill our wild world with kindness.

All too often headlines obscure this fundamental truth, hard though it might be, with stories that are unarguably terrible but mask what counts.

The incredibly devastating wildfires that have become a seasonal visitor in the West are a good example. They ought to be a wakeup call for fundamental changes in management practices.
Instead they’ve become the focus of paralyzing debates on the evils of clear-cutting. Clear cutting isn’t something to be advocated; neither is doing nothing.

In South Carolina’s Jocassee Gorges wilderness area they still use fire as a tool, much like Leopold advocated, for species go extinct in the dense thickets just as quickly as they do under the saw, or bulldozer’s blade.

Along the border between North and South Carolina is the Blue Ridge Escarpment. It is undergoing the greatest plant extinction since the end of the last ice age, 18,000 years ago, on the isolated rock outcrops and iconic coves of the region, say experts.

Many of the plants that have vanished in the Upstate survive in other parts of their North American range. Drought driven by climate change and basic changes in how the land is managed is responsible for most of the loss, say experts like Patrick McMillan.

He is host of South Carolina Educational Television’s “Expedition” series, professor at Clemson University and curator of the herbarium of the Campbell Museum of Natural History.
Dr. Doug Rayner, a botanist and professor at Wofford University in Spartanburg for 19 years, agrees and cites the rapid disappearance of rare species of tropical ferns endemic to the mist zone of the Eastatoe valley in the Jocassee Gorges.

These findings are echoed by amateur botanists and outdoorsmen who live in the region. Men like Rick Huffman of the Native Plant Society and outdoor writer and author Dennis Chastain.

“No one knows how much we’re loosing,” McMillan said. “There are probably plants gone now that weren’t even on the radar as endangered. We just don’t have the kind of staff it would take to survey and find out; but the losses are huge.

“We’ve learned something about climate change. It happens quickly once it starts.”
A lot of the figurative “heat” over drought has eased in the Southeast over the past few months. It has rained and cities like Atlanta are breathing easier over their water supply.

But the fundamental forces driving drought, like those driving climate change, haven’t changed. In the Southeastern mountains of the Blue Ridge and Appalachians, arguably, more species of plants and animals have gone extinct that anywhere else in the United States.

If you want to get an idea of just how devastating man’s effect has been here go to Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest in far western North Carolina and look at the pitifully few remaining forest giants.

Giant poplar trees were endemic to the Southern Mountains and are examples of what was once a forest of incredible diversity that stretched from the Atlantic to the Great Plains.

Industrial logging took care of all but a few pockets of the forest giants and somewhere around the first Earth Day American society discovered that conservation was chic.

Chic seldom works well when dealing with Nature “red of fang and claw.”

Somehow, we must find a balance because balance is surely what we still lack more than 60 years after Leopold’s death.

Nothing, it seems, is simple about biological diversity.

Rayner said the Bog Rose orchid, or Dragon’s Mouth (Arethusa bulbosa Linnaeus) used to be found at one spot in northern Greenville County. The little flower is probably gone there now, although colonies survive in other areas of the country.

“It hasn’t been seen in Greenville since the 1970s,” Rayner said. “I’ve looked for it on five occasions and haven’t found it. This loss is not so much because of man, but because the bog where the flower lived filled in.”

Or the bog was shaded out, as McMillan put it.

Thousands of years ago massive creatures like the mastodon, the wooly rhinoceros and other “mega-herbivores” kept bogs open by grazing and beating back intruding overgrowth.

Those massive creatures were wiped out by variety of factors, but were replaced by other large herbivores like Eastern elk and bison, he said. About 12,000 years ago man first came on the scene and used fire to keep areas open for cultivation. Europeans, in turn, took the Indians’ place and maintained the open spaces with grazing animals and cultivation.

In modern times areas were designated as special and preserved and managers like Mary Bunch at the Watson-Cooper Heritage Trust site were forced to hire workers to keep the bogs trimmed out so that a federally endangered specie called Swamp Pink (Helonias bullata), can survive, McMillan said.

Swamp Pink is one of the most unique and beautiful wildflowers in the Eastern United States and survives at Watson-Cooper and in the New Jersey Pine Barrens, he said.

The problems with bog species pales in comparison to the decimation McMillan reports in the protected zones of the escarpment due to drought. The complex interrelationship between plants and animals in this ecologically robust region threatens more than just plants, he said.

“I can’t think of a single animal specie that we’ve lost,” McMillan said, “But all of the species of animals that are dependent on high moisture levels are under considerable stress.”

Globally, the escarpment region is an epicenter of salamander species, he said, with many different kinds of salamanders concentrated within micro climates conducive to their survival.
Yet, during a recent survey near state Route 11 McMillan reports being unable to find a single green salamander (Aneides aeneus). “That particular spot is one of my most reliable ones for finding them in the fall of the year. That doesn’t mean they’re gone. It just means conditions (no rain) are not favorable for them to be in their normal area right now.”

McMillan is quick to note that climate change is also what made the escarpment area unique in the first place. “It is vertical refugia, a place where unprecedented specie diversity has been concentrated in a small area by changes in the climate over a relatively long time,” he said.

“Plants can escape warmer times by moving a few hundred feet upslope or cooler times by moving into the bottoms.”

Small animals like salamanders do, too.

And man, by his traditional uses of the land in the mountains, has actually been a great preserver of many rare plants and ecosystems, McMillan said.

It is the well-intentioned efforts at preserving special areas by stopping traditional usage that has wiped out some populations of plants, he said, by shading the bogs where they grow and closing off the ecosystem from the sunlight it needs to thrive.

The green salamander, unlike its stream-dwelling kin, relies on atmospheric moisture to keep its skin hydrated. “We had one day this year with 16 percent humidity,” McMillan said. “That’s unheard of (in this region). I’ve been in Phoenix, Ariz., many times when humidity levels where higher than that.”

According to the Chattooga Conservancy, a Georgia group focused on preservation efforts, breeding female green salamanders require cool, clean and moist horizontal crevices or narrow chambers in which to breed. The habitat provides a specific micro-climate necessary for successful embryonic development. Due to these unique habitat requirements, the Green Salamander is patchily distributed and uncommon throughout its range.

“But where you do find green salamanders, you find lots of them,” McMillan said, “But not this year.”

Trout, obviously dependent on water, have suffered a decline McMillan described as dramatic and scary.

Most are rainbows and browns, not native trout, he said. But the little jewels that are native to the region, the brook trout, are holdovers from the last ice age, too.

And illustrative of the complex relationship between plants and animals in the escarpment, climate change coupled decimation of the hemlock trees by the wooly adelgids (Adelges tsugae), an invasive specie, have put brook trout at extreme risk.

“I’d classify the destruction of the hemlock forest right up there with loss of chestnut trees due to blight in the last century,” he said. “So far as trout are concerned loosing the hemlocks is like loss of ice in the arctic; it affects everything.”

Rayner sees the same factors at work with his research. “Global warming is increasing factor, particularly in gorges. I’m seeing more and more species crammed into smaller spaces because of climate change. Eventually species will have no place to go and will become extinct.”

Rick Huffman, an amateur botanist and president of the local chapter of the Native Plant Society, is less than sanguine about man’s effect on rare plants. “Twenty percent of all known species have gone extinct since 1900 in our area,” he said. “Most of that is due to habitat loss.”

Historically the Upstate has been a caldron of overuse and misuse of natural resources. “Cotton farming is the best example,” Huffman said. “The landscape still bears the scars of that here.”
Dennis Chastain, who is on the state’s drought response committee in addition to his work as an outdoor writer and author, said this drought might well be the “new normal for us and the implications of that stretch out of sight right now.”

“The fact is the mountain climate is completely out of synch,” McMillan said. “The decline of the mountain sweet pitcher plant (Sarracenia rubra ssp. Jonesii) is a classic example. I’ve been working for nine years trying to revive one of the best sites for the plant in Pickens County. Because of the tremendous surge in drought conditions during the past two years I’ve lost four of the five populations and the fifth won’t survive to the end of the year.

“I can’t emphasize enough how rapidly this is happening. In my lifetime, in the place where I grew up (Alleghany County, North Carolina, along the Blue Ridge Parkway), the woods I walked in at five and six years of age are just gone. The whole world has changed.”

Friday, March 13, 2009

DuPont Forest's high plateau
















Triple Falls as seen from the overlook on the Triple Falls Trail; Mountain Laurel blooms in June along the Trails at DuPont State Forest located just outside of Brevard, NC; Mountain bikers whiz over the Covered Bridge at the head of High Falls; Cathy, front, Stephanie, in red, and Jerry Stark of Shelby, NC on the Covered Bridge Trail; The Little River plunges 120-feet over the waterfalls at High Falls.


Charles Sowell Photos









The newest public access wilderness access in North Carolina, DuPont State Forest is only a few degrees different than the rolling Piedmont of South Carolina and Georgia; only slightly higher than the valley of the French Broad River and Asheville, or the Tennessee River in Knoxville. But what a difference those few degrees and feet can make.
It's the kind of difference that seems to fill your lungs with vitality and your legs with energy – or maybe it is just your mind that’s changed.

No matter. When it feels like you’re breathing through a steaming-hot wool blanket on Peachtree Street in Atlanta; when the sun beats hard enough on your head hard enough to actually feel the vibrations on Lakeshore Dive in Chicago then is the time to go high.

DuPont State Forest, straddles the state line between North and South Carolina, fills that bill in regards to altitude and, more importantly, as it relates to attitude.

DuPont is a land of many waters. Lakes and ponds abound as do high-mountain trout streams and waterfalls of all stripes. You can ride horses on many of the trails at DuPont. Mountain bikers are always welcome. And, if you’re of the plodding stripe, you can hike until your heart is content and your knees quivering.

You’ve got 10,400 acres to do it on, too.

A good introduction to the DuPont Forest is an improvised 4.5-mile loop trail that takes in the major waterfalls (Hooker, Triple and High falls) as well as one minor fall on Grassy Creek
Start at the Hooker Falls parking lot on Stanton Road, near the old DuPont Plant site. It is the only parking area located on the Little River. Take the quick (.36-mile) trip downstream to Hooker Falls – a wide plunge over a 12-foot tall ledge into the headwaters of Cascade Lake.

If you visit on the first day of the trout harvest (the Little River is a delayed harvest stream) you’ll have lots of company all along the river. You might even get to witness a tussle between a fisherman and goodly-sized rainbow, or brown trout.

The Little River is a fairly large stream through this section and caution should be used when taking pictures, or wrestling with a trout – especially near any of the waterfalls.

Back at the Hooker Falls parking lot find the stairway leading up to Staunton Road and cross the bridge over Little River and take the Triple Falls Trail, on the left-hand side of the highway.

Stick with Triple Falls until you cover the half-mile, or so, to the falls overlook. The Little River drops 150 feet in three cascades here. This is one of the rarities in the Southern Appalachians, multiple falls that are actually in sight of one another. The upper and lower falls of the Whitewater River, for instance, are about 2 miles apart.

Follow the Triple Falls Trail uphill (it is ALL uphill in this stretch) until you hit the High Falls Trail. Take a left here and follow until you reach the viewing area (about another half-mile).

High Falls, a 120-foot plunge from the Covered Bridge to a substantial pool at the base, is worth the hike. This is big water doing a big drop all in one place.

If your curiosity is pricked enough by your glimpse of the Covered Bridge at the High Falls overlook, keep climbing. You won’t be disappointed.

The Covered Bridge Trail cuts off of the Triple Falls Trail and parallels Buck Forest Road to the bridge. The bridge was to be the entrance to a gated community at one point and the roads beyond it reflect the developer’s skill. As it stands the bridge offers a good view of the High Falls overlook and the valley beyond.

Bear to the left beyond the bridge on Buck Forest Road and follow the gently rolling roadbed to Grassy Creek. Cross the wooden bridge here and look to your left for the Grassy Creek Falls side trail.

It’s a short hop down to Grassy Creek Falls, a gently sloping cascade covered by sheeting water.

Back on Buck Forest Road; follow it to the junction with Lake Imaging Road for a stead downhill to Lake Imaging, a warm water pond near Staunton Road.

It is a quick half to three-quarter mile hop down to the Hooker Falls Parking Area from the parking lot at Lake Imaging Trailhead.

How to get there: Take I-26 to Exit 53 (Upward Rd.). Turn left on Upward Rd. to US-176. Upward Rd. now becomes N. Highland Lake Rd. Continue to traffic light at US-225S (Greenville Hwy.). Turn left to first traffic light (Little River Rd./sign for Carl Sandburg Home). Turn right on Little River Rd. and go to end. Turn left at flashing traffic light on Crab Creek Rd. and continue for 7.1 miles to DuPont Rd. Turn left for 3.1 miles.
For more information, go to http://www.dupontforest.com/, which is the unofficial web site of the forest.
Or email me at csowell4@gmail.com.

Sunday, March 8, 2009

Nine Times






































From top, locally known as Mountain Honeysuckle (actually a wild azalea) these showy blossoms can be found on the Nine Times tract in April; Dennis Chastain looks toward Lake Jocassee from the top of Big Rock Mountain; Trailing Arbutus, a small white flower; Dennis Chastain holds a Luna Moth; and Birdfoot violets in bloom on Big Rock Mountain.





Hi, and welcome to Southern Biosphere. This blog will look at the highs and lows of living in, and loving, the outdoors of the Southeastern United States.

Perhaps no region of the country offers more people more chances to hike, fish, hunt, or just explore than the sliver of mountains tucked away in a four-state area defined by Georgia, Tennessee, North and South Carolina. More than half of the country's population lives within driving distance of this area.

And the area itself is growing like kudzu on steroids.

In my native Palmetto State people call the mountains the "Blue Wall." In everyday parlance, it is known as the Blue Ridge Escarpment -- a sinuous, winding, system of mountains that stretches from the the Little Tennessee River's headwaters in Northeast Georgia to Hogback Mountain on the border of Greenville and Spartanburg counties in South Carolina.

This is a land of heart-busting climbs; of rock walls that put cricks in your neck; of nesting peregrine falcons; and hundreds of rare and endangered plants and animals scattered in ecological micro climates that mimic everything from boreal Canadian forests to semi-tropical rainforest.

"The Wall," arguably, is home to one of the greatest diversities of flora and fauna on the entire Eastern Seaboard. Much of that biological diversity is threatened by forces far beyond human control. Some of it is not.

Right now, one of the biggest issues facing conservationists are efforts to preserve an ecologically significant chuck of land know locally as the Nine Times tract.

Nine Times is exceptional for two reasons. One, it is the largest parcel of undeveloped land left along the Blue Ridge Escarpment; and, two, the tract holds a significant number of rare and endangered plants and animals within its 2,000 acres.

Dana Leavitt, land trust director for Upstate Forever (the region's premiere preservation organization) says plans to preserve the tract have hit a speed bump.

Funding sources have dried, leaving Upstate Forever w-a-y "out on a limb.” In 2007, the organization mortgaged its soul to buy 560 acres of the tract from Duke Energy and set up a two-year option to buy the remaining 1,648 acres for $4800 an acre.

Since then, Upstate Forever has managed to offload the 560 acre tract to The Nature Conservancy, recouping part of their cost and ensuring the most ecologically significant portion of the tract is preserved.
The conservancy plans to open that section of the tract to the public this spring.

A November deadline looms large for the option to purchase the rest.

Upstate Forever plans to ask Duke for an extension on their purchase option and, perhaps, for a reduction in price. “Economic realities being what they are, we don’t think that’s unreasonable,” Leavitt said.

New rounds of meetings with public and private groups are set for the near future as Upstate Forever tries to set up a similar coalition of groups to the one that came up with the purchase price of Stumphouse Mountain in Oconee County.

“We’ve gotten the most ecologically important section of the tract (the 560 acres on the southwest side of E. Preston McDaniel Highway) protected,” Leavitt said.

After Wadakoe Mountain, Nine Times has been called the most environmentally sensitive area in the region. Wadakoe enjoys special protected status as a state Heritage Trust site, a designation Nine Times does not have.

Dennis Chastain, author and outdoor writer, has spent a lifetime chasing game and classifying plants on the slopes of the mountains that make up Nine Times. Every spring he leads groups into the area to view some of the rarest plants in the East.

He took me onto Big Rock Mountain last April and showed off some of the tract's best (pictures are attached). This spring promises to be even more spectacular as a decade-long drought that has gripped the region has eased.

Flowers seem to do better when they get a little water.

Nine Times would do a lot better if it were to come under the protective arm of a conservation-minded group, or coalition of groups.

As it stands, no one is lining up to contest Upstate Forever's plans for the area. But Duke Power holds all the face cards in this high-stakes game of poker and their consent to an extension of the agreement is essential, Leavitt said.

Otherwise, there just might not be a wildflower tour at Nine Times for Dennis to lead next spring.

For tours contact Chastain at DChas878@aol.com
For more information on The Nature Conservancy's slice of Nine Times contact Kristen Austin mailto:kaustin@tnc.org

Upstate Forever's Dana Leavitt may be contacted at dleavitt@upstateforever.org.